Coimbra Portugal’s University City
A Rich Artistic Heritage and a Lively Student Scene
A high baroque library, sumptuous churches, fado, a top children's attraction and ruins of a major Iberian Roman city make Coimbra one of Portugal's must-see places.
North of Lisbon is Coimbra, a hillside college town where students in black capes sweep down the narrow stone streets or stroll dashingly through the café-lined squares. Begin a tour of the city at Largo da Portagem opposite the Hotel Astoria, where the tourist office can provide a map and booklet listing current opening hours.
Climb the hill to see the University's magnificent Biblioteca (library), built in 1724 and considered among the finest baroque rooms in the world. Rooms of red, green and gold house thousands of books under trompe l'oeil ceilings whose pillars seem to move as you walk under them. Facing the same plaza are the Sala dos Capelas, where graduations are held, and the Chapel, with an impressive doorway, painted ceiling, 17th-century tiles and a splendid organ.
Below the university is the formidable looking cathedral, with an impressive gilt and polychrome high altar. At the bottom of the winding lane that drops from the University plaza is the church of Santa Clara, its interior lined with the blue and white tiles – azulejos – for which Portugal is famous. A Renaissance pulpit, carved choir stalls and a fine cloister add to the church’s attractions.
Portugal dos Pequenitos, across the river in the Santa Clara district, appeals to adults as much as it does to the children it was built to please. Child-scale models of buildings from all over Portugal and its former colonies in Brazil, Angola, Goa and Macao are literally a mini-tour of the country and its former empire.
A good restaurant, as well as the best place to hear Coimbra's own style of fado, is Trouvador, opposite the cathedral (039/82 54 75). Taberna, on Rua dos Combatentes da Grande Guerra 86 (039/71 62 65) serves wood-fired regional dishes in a pleasant surrounding.
Overlooking the river, the elegant Hotel Astoria is a good choice if you plan to take in a Fado performance later or want to wander in the evening to visit some of the churches and browse the restaurant scene. Ask for a room with a balcony overlooking the river. Their restaurant, Amphitryon, is excellent, too, and not expensive.
On the hill across the river is the attractive Hotel Dom Luis, also with an excellent restaurant, the Panorama, and a view of the city.
South of Coimbra, follow signs to Ruinas de Conimbriga, Portugal's finest Roman site. Conimbriga has beautifully detailed mosaic floors, well-preserved thermal baths and remains of villas with atrium pools and restored fountains. To understand the panic the Romans felt as the barbarian Suevi approached, look at the enormous wall right through the city's center, built of whatever they could grab quickly, including pieces of people's homes -- anything to protect their fine (and refined) city.
It didn't work, of course, and the hordes came swarming right over the wall. Few places in Europe show the history of a single moment so vividly. Visit the adjoining museum first, to learn how Roman colonials lived and for the history of Conimbriga. Allow plenty of time to tour the ruins, which span several centuries and a considerable area.
