Palaces in Sintra, Portugal

Two Royal Palaces Built Centuries Apart

© Barbara Bothwell

The Gaudy Pena Palace, Barbara Bothwell

On top of a hill is the Palacio da Pena, an extraordinary 19th century neo-gothic structure. By contrast, in the center of town is the 14th century National Palace.

In the 19th century King Consort Ferdinand Saxe Coburg-Gotha (the husband of Queen Maria II of Portugal), had his fellow German, Baron Von Eschwege, help him design and construct his dream castle.

The palace is an eclectic mix of styles from around the world. Some parts look Indian, others Arabian, plus a European castle or two. Added to this are the brilliantly colored walls - daffodil yellow, sugar pink, apricot, blue tiles and some yellow domes.

From the brightly colored medieval-look entrance arch, to an Arabian styled doorway and a row of monastic looking windows around the inner courtyard, it is fantastic. Nothing more so than the Triton Arch surrounded by blue tile work and surmounted by a bearded sea monster. He is seated on a shell and supports a tree, the branches of which curve around the windows above him.

The rooms are just as varied in their styles. The vaulted Dining Room with its cream tiled walls and ceiling (between the wooden ribs) rather resembles a wine cellar and is filled with Jacobean-style furniture.

The high-ceilinged and sumptuous ballroom has German stained-glass windows and plasterwork on the walls and ceiling. It is decorated with a variety of chairs and tables, has Oriental porcelain and a vast chandelier.

The two most outstanding bedrooms are Manuel II's and Queen Amelia's. The King's is oval in shape with crimson walls, stucco-ed ceiling, more extraordinary furniture and his portrait. Manuel II was the last King of Portugal.

Queen Amelia's bedroom is probably the prettiest room in the palace with walls and a vaulted ceiling covered in beautiful pastel Portuguese tiles (azulejos). Dominating the room is red canopied Tester Bed.

For a really weird room, the Arabian wins hands down. Again there are vaulted ceilings, these covered with Arabian-style trompe l'oeil, plaster encrusted walls, arched doorways and windows. The furnishings lean heavily on divans and uncomfortable looking chairs.

Open: Until June 30 - 10.00 a.m. - 5. 30 p.m. July 1 - September 15 - 10.00 a.m. - 7.00 p.m.

Admission: $11 (7 euros).

National Palace of Sintra

It is easy to find the National Palace due to its pair of enormous conical chimneys.

The palace was built in the 14th century, was the Royal Palace and used as the Summer Palace until the 19th century. As the building has been added to and renovated over the centuries, there is a variety of styles of architecture, although the main one is Arabic.

As well as Moorish doorways surrounded by tiles and Arabian-style windows, there is the Arabian Room decorated with beautiful azulejos.

The Banqueting Hall has a magnificent ceiling which is divided into octagonal panels, each one containing the painting of a swan. Birds are a feature of another room - the Sala das Pegas (magpies). It is rumored that Joao I had the ceiling painted with magpies to remind the court ladies not to gossip!

A really majestic room is the Sala dos Brasoes (Coats of Arms). The domed ceiling is decorated with stags holding the coats of arms of 74 Portuguese families. The Delt-like tiled walls lighten the atmosphere.

Open: 10.00 a.m. - 5.30 p.m. (closed Wednesday)

Admission: $6 (4 euros). Seniors and 15-25 yrs discount. Under 14 yrs free.

Sintra is an easy drive from Lisbon and on the way, do find time to visit Queluz Palace.

More information can be found about Portugal on the tourism web site.


The copyright of the article Palaces in Sintra, Portugal in Portugal Travel is owned by Barbara Bothwell. Permission to republish Palaces in Sintra, Portugal must be granted by the author in writing.


The Gaudy Pena Palace, Barbara Bothwell
Pena Palace seen through the trees, Barbara Bothwell
The Sea Monster above the Triton Arch, Barbara Bothwell
A mix of Arabia and the Medieval, Barbara Bothwell
The chimneys of the National Palace, Barbara Bothwell


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