Portugal's Palace Hotel do Bussaco

A Magical and Macabre Experience for both Families and Couples

Oct 21, 2009

The luxurious Palace Hotel do Bussaco in the Beira province of Portugal is a study in contrasts.

The Palace Hotel do Bussaco in Luso, Portugal is much more than a luxurious and historic place to spend the night. It is a unique spot in the world, full of surprises at every turn.

Although arriving anytime at this opulent hotel is fine, it is best to try to arrive in the evening. Entering the hotel grounds through the old stone gate at the town of Luso ,and taking the circuitous drive through the dark forest trees and up the mountain, can feel, at first, like one is heading into the wilderness. Then, at the final turn in the drive, the first view of the hotel, with its turrets and twinkling lights, can make the traveler feel as though they have taken a trip back in time to when the royal family used this palace as a get-away.

The first thing to see, upon approaching the large surrounding porch at the front entrance, is a massive azulejos mural against the side of the building, the signature blue and white tile work that Portugal is famous for. This one depicts an angry Neptune, rising out of the sea, about to pounce upon a comparatively small galleon.

The lobby inside is lush and opulent with dark carved wood furniture that rests on a rich parquet floor. There is a sweeping staircase, as grand as such a staircase should be, lined along one side with another azulejos depicting the famous Portuguese battle of Ceuta and Ormuz. At the top of the stair is a huge clear window divided into patterns with leading and a suit of armor that has been fitted out with little red, lit-up eyes for a touch of whimsy.

Few hotels can boast the kind of complicated history that Hotel Buçaco has. The spot where it sits, in the hills of Serra do Buçaco, about 27 km. from the ancient city of Coimbra, has hosted a variety of visitors. In 1630, the Barefoot Carmelites built a monastery here. The surrounding forest was walled off and filled with hundreds of varieties of exotic trees from all over the world and then placed under papal protection. Anyone who entered without invitation would be instantly ex-communicated!

In 1810, it was the sight of a bloody battle between French and Portuguese/English troops. In the early 1900's the Palace itself was built for the royal family as a "hunting lodge." Unfortunately the king, Manuell II, didn't get much used out of it before the dissolution of the monarchy in 1910.

Bits and pieces of all of this sight's history contribute to the experience of visiting the hotel.

The 250 acre forest that surrounds the hotel sits in is one of the most exciting parts of the experience of a stay here. Although maps are provided at the front desk, the twists and turns of the dark forest paths make following the map almost impossible. It is actually more fun to just start walking and see where you end up.

One of the places you may find yourself is by a series of small stucco huts, each covered with decaying red-tiled roofs. When you peek through the windows of these huts, be prepared! Each hut represents one of the Twelve Stations of the Cross, depicted in life-size sculptural figures with appropriately agonized expressions.

As you pass under moss-covered trees, keep an eye out for other small huts which once housed monks on solitary retreats. Inside many of them are elaborate altars and tile work.

Many paths lead to dead ends. Little fountains and moss-covered stairs appear out of nowhere. And somewhere in the middle of it all, is a lake with an island in the middle of it that can be reached from a twig-covered footbridge.

The hotel's rooms are suitably grand in scale and each comes with its own similarly large bathroom. Unfortunately, they just don't make a great bathroom in Portugal. Invariably taking a shower seems to involve the entire room, leaving everything as damp as you are.

The furniture and decor are not lavish, but are comfortable, impeccably clean and attractive.

Breakfast is a grand affair, served buffet style. There is everything from cheese and fruit, yogurt and muesli to eggs, bacon and cereal. The homemade Portuguese bread is a masterpiece. One is a crusty, coarse white bread, and the other made partially with corn meal.

The dining room itself is a feast for the eyes. In fact, the eye is almost unable to prevent traveling up from the carved wood paneling below to the painted mural above, and, finally, to the ceiling. There is sees deeply carved detail which comes to dozens of points, each one capped with a twinkling light bulb. It's the perfect spot for a romantic dinner for two.

The Palace Hotel do Bussaco is a remarkable destination. This remote spot is perfect for a couple who want to get away from it all. Surprisingly, it is also a wonderful spot to travel with children. The magic of the setting will appeal to the whole family and the Portuguese love of children will make it a comfortable place to stay. Rooms range between 105 and 140 Euros.

The copyright of the article Portugal's Palace Hotel do Bussaco in Portugal Travel is owned by Wendy Ponte. Permission to republish Portugal's Palace Hotel do Bussaco in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.