The first pousada in Portugal is said to have been founded in the 12th century to offer pilgrims a room, a bed and a candle. Though there’s still a candle in each pousada room, today’s inns offer a good deal more.
In the early 1940s, the Portuguese government set about providing elegant lodging places, called pousadas, in places where formerly there was no place for travelers to stay. Now there are 48 of these hostelries, most of them occupying historic buildings, scattered the length and breadth of the country.
Housed primarily in former palaces, castles, fortresses, manor houses and monasteries, the pousada’s guest rooms contain one-of-a-kind furnishings, beds turned down and night and bathtubs long and deep enough for near total emersion.
The pousada at Obidos occupies a wing of a 13th century fortress. Pousada da Rainha Santa Isabel at Estremoz is everyone’s fantasy castle, with heavy velvet draperies, marble halls, gleaming gold leaf and corridors lined with 17th and 18th century antiques. Others vary in architectural style from stone-and shutters rustic to a sort of pink stucco Portuguese wedding cake.
Interior décor varies, too. Guest room furnishings range from sophisticated homespun draperies and spreads to homey floral prints. Hand-loomed carpets, gleaming copper kettles, crocheted table runners and regional pottery are among the accessories that add distinctive touches.
No matter what its size, style or décor, every nook and cranny of each ones of the inns is cleaned and buffed to perfection. And almost every one of the inns is situated in the area’s choicest spot for capturing the local view.
Pousada de Palmela ranks high as far as dramatic settings are concerned. Built in medieval style amidst the ruins of a 15th century castle occupied at one time by Knights Templar, views from its ramparts encompass olive groves, Don Quixote windmills, seas of high-rise apartments, ships in harbor and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.
Pousada dos Loios at Evora, an hour’s drive from Estremoz, is housed in a 15th century monastery, complete with turrets, towers and the ruins of a Roman temple near its entrance.
Many of the pousadas are located in close proximity to points of historical interest. The lavishly decorated pousada, St. Maria da Oliveira in Guimaraes is within easy walking distance of the downtown area, all of which is a National Historic Monument.
Pousada D. Alfonso II, lies in Alcacer do Sal about 85 miles southeast of Portugal’s capital, Lisbon The 45-room pousada was created from a centuries old castle and the Monastery of Our Lady of Aracoeli. An underground archaeological museum nearby focuses on the area’s 5,000 years of history dating back to the Neolithic Age..
Highlights of the Pousada de San Jeronimo at Caramulo are a collection of antique autos and a small art gallery. Next door to the pousada in Estremoz is an excellent regional museum.
Elegant dining rooms are among the pousadas’ most attractive amenities. The second floor dining room of Pousada Sao Filipe in Setubal overlooks the sea, while in Evora, dining tables are set among the cloisters. Menus in the pousada dining rooms reflect Portuguese foods, with an emphasis on regional dishes.
For more information on Portugal’s lodging places, click on portugal and pousadas of portugal. The latter site provides a complete listing, along with addresses.
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