Seeing Portugal Region by Region
Southern Europe's Bargain Spot at its Best When Traveled Leisurely
Portugal, only slightly larger than the US state of Maine, is best enjoyed region by region rather than trying to see it all in anything but an extended trip.
When it comes to bang for your travel buck, Portugal is western Europe’s best buy. Prices are among the most reasonable on the continent and the variety of experiences is impressive.
A good starting point for any Portuguese visit is Lisbon, the capital and largest city. Though a 1755 earthquake destroyed a large part of the town, landmarks such as Tower of Belem, and Jeronimos Monastery remain. Save time to wander around Alfama, the old Moorish quarter, and to visit the Gulbenkian Museum, which displays one of the world’s finest private collections of art.
Lisbon Day-Trips
Set aside time, too, for a day-trip to the walled city of Obidos and the picturesque fishing village of Nazare, where the widows of fishermen lost in accidents at sea 50 years ago still wear black. Both Obidos and Nazare are ideal for strolling, but be sure to wear comfortable shoes. Even closer to Lisbon, the palaces at Sintra and the posh resorts at Cascais offer other intriguing glimpses of Portuguese life.
Porto, North Portugal and The Alentejo
After Lisbon, head north perhaps, to Porto, Portugal’s second city and center of the country’s port wine producing region. Drive along the picturesque Douro River to visit small wineries and the quintas (country estates) of Porto’s large wine export houses.
North from Porto to the Spanish border is scenically spectacular with pine-clad mountains and forests of eucalyptus. Though they’re decreasing in number, you’ll occasionally see people still living as their families have for generations – carrying burdens on their heads, using animals for transportation and hand tools instead of machines. East of Lisbon lies the Alentejo, with its whitewashed towns, hilltop castles, olive and cork oak orchards, vast wheat fields and windmills.
Algarve
Population centers in Portugal’s playground – the southern area along the Atlantic known as Algarve -- range from the somewhat scruffy resort town, Albufeira, to decidedly upscale developments at Vale do Lobo and Quarteira. Weather is near perfect, especially in spring, summer and fall, so playing its golf courses (there are more than a dozen), sitting around the hotel pool, and breakfasting on your private balcony can be idyllic.
Markets and Festivals
Weekly markets aren’t as colorful as they were in the days before plastics and polyester, but they still provide great shopping – especially those in the northern part of the country (most famous is the Barcelos market on Thursdays).
Stalls lining the streets during any Portuguese festival are also good places to find local crafts, such as leatherwork, articles made of cork, ceramic figurines and fancywork. And don’t miss the food -- bacalhau (cod), caldo verde (a soup containing shreds of kale and thinly sliced sausage), and sweets called “nuns’ tummies” – or the performances by ethnic dancers, singers and musicians.
After Dark Entertainment
If nightlife enhances your travels, head for Algarve, where you’ll find in-house entertainment – including live music – at the larger hotels as well as sidewalk cafes around the marinas. There’s also a small casino at Vilamoura. Almost anywhere in the country you can listen to fado. The fadista, traditionally clad in black and wearing or clutching a black shawl, sings the Portuguese blues while accompanied by equally solemn guitarists.
Accommodations
Where to stay? Independently owned hotels and those belonging to international hotel chains, resort area condos, manor houses and the government-run pousadas insure enough choices to please every traveler. Among the hotels, the unforgettable Hotel Palacio in the Bucaco Forest about 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) northeast of Coimbra, was formerly the hunting lodge of King Carlos.
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